Una Dia en Montezuma
Free breakfast ends at 9am and coaxing Bosa out of bed at this time of day is always a somewhat tenuous affair, but we make it in time for a lovely fresh and simple gallo pinto. As there is a giant butterfly garden on site we reckon it’s time to check it out! Our host takes us to meet Sarah, a lovely Irish traveler who started volunteering at the hotel and ended up breeding butterflies! They have 14 species in the gardens, all indigenous to Costa Rica, and the blue morpho is especially enchanting. They wobble and lunge about the canopy like animated playing cards, drunk on fermented fruit and flashing whimsically in the sunbeams.
The waterfalls here the main attraction here so we decide to hike in. Patches of the dry gravel road are coated with molasses for dust control so the air is rich with sugary malty aromas as we pass by and our sandals stick to the road. The approach is a stunning trail system that includes suspension bridges that takes us through the tropical forest canopy and down into the jungle. Popping down into the river for a dip I am startled to be swarmed by hundreds of tiny fish that start nibbling at my skin! Weird! But it some people pay spa money for this so I allow myself to be nature-groomed before moving on.
The waterfalls themselves are, of course, stunning but it’s all the lovely people lazily basking and swimming about beneath them that is so charming. A couple local ticos wowed the crowd by solo climbing the rocks beside the waterfall and cliff jumping from about 70 feet up. One of these crazy kids climbed back up afterwards, edged out into the waterfall itself and executed a perfect swan dive from 50 feet! After nice coconut we head back into town for a lovely lunch/dinner (lunner?) at Cafe Organico, crack a cold one on the beach and watch a ridiculous sunset before calling it a night. This is measurably better than staying up all night shoveling snow in Canada…